The Best View in all of Stellenbosch

The Best View in all of Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch: the city and the mountains as seen from Kayamandi township

Friday, April 5, 2013

IV. A Tour of Stellenbosch: the City, the Winecountry, the Settlements & the Naming of this Blog


Stellenbosch downtown area reminds me way too much of Evanston downtown area. Last night I had a conversation - "Are we really in Africa?" with a few people in my program. The obvious answer is yes. The gut reaction answer is no. But I'm sure I'll be thinking about that for the next three months and beyond. These three months I'm sure will be great as far as challenging stereotypes and developing new ways of looking at things. Every time I picture a globe and where South Africa is on it, I realize how far away I am from home...and even the Northern Hemisphere. It's weird. Flying down the entire length of the continent of Africa was similarly weird. It would look on the map on the plane and realize "Oh, over Cameroon now." "Oh, over Democratic Republic of the Congo now." "Oh over Angola now." etc... 
Today we took a tour of Stellenbosch. We visited several townships or informal settlements around Stellenbosch - remnants of apartheid area that are still home to tens of thousands of people. The odd thing is too, these could be located across the highway, across the street, or across a tall barbed-wire, Great Dane and ADT-guarded fence from a golf club, gated-community with giant mansions, or BMW dealership. It's so weird to me how such extreme prosperity and such extreme poverty can coexist by each other side by side. Too close. Close to the point that it made me feel actually physically sick to my stomach just looking at the comparison. I'm not sure if comparisons are the right thing to do. But it was impossible not to. 
I don't like taking pictures of people's homes when they're in front of them, which many of these people were. Men loitering on the streets because they can't get jobs in town. So I didn't take too many pictures. We actually took a bus up to the top of Kayamandi settlement, just outside Stellenbosch, which is on a hillside and has THE BEST views in all of the city (to the point that someone built a random bed and breakfast in the middle of it advertising a "unique cultural experience" for tourists to see this marvelous view) and THE WORST smells in all of the city. Garbage. Sewage. Dirty water. Everywhere. The homes are packed so closely together that there are only main roads. Thousands of people live in these shacks. And whenever there is a fire - usually when someone tries to install electricity - firemen and trucks cannot reach the homes unless they are on the outermost edge, so all the homes in that area burn down. 



Electricity is not common in these homes - I had that part of culture shock when we walked past a store that advertised "Electricity." In the US, wifi is pretty much assumed in most places. In Kayamandi, Electricity is a rare luxury. But everyone has cell phones. 

When we got to the top of the Kayamandi settlement, we got off the bus and walked down through it. It was quite an interesting experience, and we definitely stuck out like sore thumbs - although that is an extreme understatement. I felt very aware of my skin color, but moreso of just not belonging there. And almost ashamed of my group members who were taking pictures of the little kids. The kids themselves didn't seem to mind and were doing all sorts of crazy poses. But it just seemed like profile picture exploitation of poor African children. They didn't talk to the kids, ask them their names. Sure the kids were mostly speaking Xhosa and Zulu, but still, an effort would have been nice. I guess I've just gone on too many Sheil service trips so that that behavior really bothered me. It wasn't as though we were going to get to know these kids or even as though we were making a positive impact or doing something in solidarity to improve the world. We were just spectators making them into spectacles. And clearly upsetting their parents who were watching that happen quite dubiously. 

So, my blog title is Khayamnandi. I couldn't decide on whether or not I should make a South Africa blog. I've never blogged before. I'm not really sure what the purpose is. But I know there are some of you who might be interested in some/all of what I'm doing and thinking. And some of you (ehemm, Mom and Dad) played major roles in getting me here, so it's only fair you know what you supported. Anyway, back to Khayamnandi. So as I said Kayamandi was the settlement with the gorgeous views and the tiny packed together houses. But our guide, Kalvin told us that Kayamandi comes from the Xhosa word Khayamnandi for pleasant home. These people named their settlement a "pleasant home" because what looks like a no-hope situation to me is their home, their neighborhood, their community. 

6000 of the houses burned down three months ago in a fire - they have all been rebuilt by neighbors. Is there any other community in the world that could boast that? As we walked down the hilly streets, music was playing, people were hanging out together, laughing and talking, the kids were singing and laughing and playing and smiling. What looks like dire, even miserable conditions, really is so much more. Not to look at it through rose-colored glasses, but to maybe see more than the "poor starving children" and the sewage and the garbage and the shacks smaller than my bathroom at home. Not to look at it entirely from a spoiled American's perspective, but to try to see things from the perspective of a someone who lives there, who sees Kayamandi as a home, and not just a place to cover the basic necessity of "shelter" but a community and a pleasant home

We visited some other places too, including a settlement called Idas Valley, where we played with the kids on a big green field for about an hour. I don't speak Xhosa and they don't speak English, so at first I didn't have a clue what to do. But then I remembered the first day in Cusmapa this past December and how the little girls taught me hand clapping games and they seemed to be pretty universal. So I went out on a limb and gave it a try. Sure enough, about twenty seconds of hand motioning later, they were teaching me a hand clapping game. It was awesome and lasted a while, and I felt my heart start to melt and overflow with joy. Oh, this is why I'm here was the thought I had. I didn't feel out of place, stared at, treated rudely, or treated too nicely. I felt happy. I could see the kids genuinely having fun and wanting to play with me once they got over their initial shyness. One little girl apparently did speak English because after a while of hand clapping games and tag, she told me I needed an African braid in my hair and made me sit down on the ground while she braided my hair and three other girls fought for a seat on my lap. Eventually, and all too soon of course, it was time to depart. It was difficult telling the little girls I had to go and not being able to say 'I'll see you again' or 'I'll be back.' But I guess that is how life works. And we definitely touched each others' lives today - yet again, the kids probably having a much bigger impact on me than I could ever have on them. 

After leaving the kiddos, we went to a wine farm called Middelvlei out in the country - a very nice place and consequently a difficult transition after the morning's township tours. But the food was delicious and the staff exceptionally hospitable and the views of the mountains and wine farms stunning. 

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