The Best View in all of Stellenbosch

The Best View in all of Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch: the city and the mountains as seen from Kayamandi township

Friday, April 12, 2013

XI. Wandering around Stellenbosch: A New Friend, Honest Opinions; Is Apartheid Really Over?


Warning: ok so this post might seem insensitive at times, but I’m just conveying a conversation I had with a person I met today. It really helped me understand the mindset and understand the impacts of apartheid on a micro-level. This is apartheid removed from mass poverty, removed from legislation and televised and reported atrocities. This I also use a ton of words describing race in this post, but they’re the terms she used and they’re even the official terms used in South Africa today.

Today was a free day! Hooray! It was good to have some time to myself and do some random things like laundry and tidying and writing my paper that have needed doing.
But then I had all afternoon to do whatever I wanted. It was great. So I decided to wander. I think wandering might be the best way to get to know a place, and I haven’t done much wandering in Stellenbosch. I did get lost on my way into town. Realized people were staring at me like I didn’t belong, and looking around me I quickly ascertained that I didn’t belong, but it was the middle of the afternoon and lots of people were around, so instead of panicking, I just calmly walked one block over and two blocks up and was immediately back in an area where I did belong.
That in itself, to me is problematic. Sure I don’t belong in areas of Chicago or even Evanston, but it was also weird how rapid the changes are here. As in one block makes all the difference. This was also much more like the “don’t belong” feeling in Evanston or Chicago. Very different from the Kayamandi feeling of being an outsider but not in danger.

Anyway…today wasn’t supposed to be about learning. But I guess the study in study abroad isn’t all in the classroom. In fact, most of it isn’t, I’m quickly realizing. And some of it isn’t even related to my program. For example, my navigating and wandering and getting lost in Stellenbosch today. But hey, now I know my way around town very well. I have a mental map, and I know where to go and where not to go. I also have a new friend in town. Her name is Emma. And I’m quite proud of this friendship, because she is the first South African friend I made entirely independent of my program. But no worries – it rapidly turned into an educational experience too. #nerdwestern

So Stellenbosch has a bunch of boutiques and art galleries that sell locally made things. I just wanted to kind of wander and window shop, so I was casually walking into the ones that caught my attention. It’s really nice to not be in a hurry, not really something I ever experience back at NU. Always have somewhere to go, somewhere to be, something to do. But not today. So I wandered into a little art gallery called Art on 5. It is owned by four local Stellenbosch painters who make paintings and pottery. I caught a glimpse of some of the prices and immediately decided I didn’t belong here either. But the woman behind the counter smiled at me so sweetly so I asked her a dumb question ‘Are these all made by local artists?’ – I was about 99.9% sure the answer was ‘Yes.’ Which of course it was, but she was nice about it and told me a bit about the artists. I hate those situations when you’re the only person in a very small store besides the clerk behind the counter, so this was just me making an awkward attempt at trying to make conversation and seem like this place wasn’t about ten times outside my budget…but whatever. She went along with it. Then my eye caught a shelf of cards and I saw one that had the national flower, the protea, on it. I don’t know if you know what the protea looks like, but it’s beautiful, and I looked at the sticker, and it was completely affordable, so I decided to buy it. If you’ve seen my apartment room in Evanston, you know that the only form of art I use on my walls is photos and cards. So it could actually function as wall art for me too! And it saved what I for some reason felt was a very awkward situation. But in hindsight (it’s about 5 hours later…haha) I think I know why I felt prompted to buy this card.

While she was writing up my receipt (yes it was handwritten), I asked her a few more questions about the art and then asked her if the art in this gallery changed frequently. She started telling me a bit about each of the artist’s busy lives and jobs and things so I ascertained that was probably a no. Then I think she finally caught on that I wasn’t a local, and she asked me where I came from. I told her the US and then asked her if she was from Stellenbosch, which yes, she was. She lives in Idas Valley, which was the town where I played hand clapping games with the little girls and was informed I need an “African braid” in my hair by that precocious little  girl who promptly started braiding my hair. Well, the “So are you from Stellenbosch?” question – five simple words – well, it was about 1:30pm when I asked that question. When I reemerged onto the street, I looked at my watch, it was 3:15. Haha!

So what did Emma and I talk about for nearly two hours (although we didn’t formally introduce ourselves by name until I was leaving)? Well…everything. She told me about growing up in the apartheid years. How her parents had grown up in the town of Stellenbosch but had been forcefully relocated to Idas Valley at the time when the separate areas act was enforced and all the black people had been sent to Kayamandi and the colored people to Idas Valley. She pointed to the street outside and told me that when she was a girl, she had not been allowed even to walk on that very street. But since she had relatively fair skin, occasionally she could sneak in shops and watch people work, but then when she was caught she’d get thrown out and sent back home. She told me that her mother had worked in the home of a white family, but that they had been very nice people and had never treated them badly and had always driven her mother home at the end of the day, but would have to drop her off a few streets over for safety reasons. I couldn’t quite tell if she meant the white family’s safety or her mother’s safety. She told me about her aunt who had married a German man, but they had had to run off to Namibia when they got married because at the time the Immorality Act forbade people of different races from getting married. When her aunt and uncle had come back to South Africa, they came and had stayed with her family in Stellenbosch but her uncle had actually gotten thrown in jail for a few days. I asked her if it was perceived as a bad thing or a betrayal of sorts among the colored community for a colored person to marry into the white world. She said “absolutely not! If you could get a white suitor and sort of become white, then good for you! Go for it! Your life is only going to get better if you marry a white person!”

She told me all about her school, an Afrikaans school for colored children. And then she told me about the protests that had started and the resistance. She said that the apartheid system was bad but that when she was a kid she didn’t know or realize it was bad because it just was. She had been born into it. Nobody ever talked about it at home. It was hush hush. If it was ever talked about it was done so under the table. She said she occasionally would hear about protests in the black communities but that she never ever went there. It wasn’t safe, and why would she want to go? If she would sneak anywhere, it would be into a white community. She described the protests at her school as peaceful and calm. They would sing the songs of resistance but then they were done and went back to class and studying and working hard so that they could improve their situations in life. She said university was out of the question for colored people in her community. But she loved learning, especially history. She likes reading books now that she’s older, because in school the only history books they ever read were about Hitler and Stalin. I really wanted to ask her if they portrayed Hitler as a bad guy (since apartheid had been founded on Nazi principles) but couldn’t bring myself to go there. She said they never learned anything about South African history, so nobody knows the history of South Africa or the local areas. She then proceeded to tell me all the random things about Stellenbosch and South Africa that nobody knows…of course I knew none of them either, but it was fantastic to hear them! For example, how the Boers knew nothing about winemaking, so the French were brought in, which is why lots of things have French names here. She kept on saying a word that sounded like throat coughing, and then I kept asking her what it was, and she kept on saying ‘The French’ and then I realized she was saying ‘the Huguenots’ except that word pronounced in Afrikaans is about is different as it gets from the American English pronunciation of that word. Ha! She told me about a big monument dedicated to the Huguenots in Paarl (a nearby town) in gratitude for them teaching the people here how to make wine. When I finally realized she was saying Huguenots was when she started talking about their weird, isolationist, rigid religion with its ridiculously strict rules. But apparently they were all about the winemaking.

In the midst of all of this, she was telling me about her family and her kids and her life and her childhood. It was really interesting. She kept on saying “we coloreds” or “we colored people.” And then, what was perhaps even more interesting to me was when she was talking about current things. This was conversation style, so it was not in chronological order of the history of South Africa. It was 21st century, 20th century, 19th century, 18th century, and even 17th century sprinkled everywhere. But lots and lots of talk about the present day and post-apartheid and post-Mandela, which in her mind are two different stories. 

She talked a lot about the colored community today and a black Cape Town journalist who a few months ago had written all about the problems with colored people in South Africa and how the colored community around the country had reacted to that. Apparently this journalist had accused colored people (brief interruption, but how the hell can someone make such a generalization in the 21st century and get away with it?!) of being lazy, drinking a lot, and being violent and gangsters and had alluded to the Cape Flats smile as her evidence of that. I had actually been told about this the day before by one of my journalism student friends here that the Cape Flats smile is the term for a Cape Flats person who removes the four front teeth. I didn’t really know what it meant or why it was done, but at least I could place what she was talking about. So then I asked her “what does it mean… why is that done?” She said it is some kind of statement or identity thing. People just do it. I then asked her if the people who live in Cape Flats are black or colored. And she said they were all colored.

Then she again started talking about the end of apartheid era resistance and how the colored people had resisted peacefully, just making speeches and things like that. But that the black community had used violence and burned everything down – clinics, schools, services, etc. I’m not sure how I feel about this, but she had called it ‘stupidity.’ She said there was no reason for that, because then they complained that they didn’t have clinics orschools, but they had just burned them down so how could they have any right to complain about that. She talked about the sense of entitlement that she seemed to think the black community has still as a result of that. She talked a lot about the fire and how she was frustrated that the colored community and white community had done a run and fundraised all the money for the houses that were rebuilt in the black community – Kayamandi. Then she pointed across the street at a woman – a black woman whose house she said had burned down in the fire 3 months ago. She told me that this woman clearly has clothes and is dressed fine, and that that’s because of the generous white people in the town, such as her bosses – the artists who own the gallery – donated all the clothes, but that the black people are still asking for more.

She went in the back for a sec and grabbed her book that she is currently reading, After Mandela. I’ve heard of this book before. Well, she told me it was “bs.” Mostly. She said, sure Mandela was a great guy and he brought the country out of apartheid, but what now? It’s a disaster. The black people still have nothing. They have and will vote for a black president, even though he does nothing for them. They are still unemployed and living in shacks and hungry.  She said the government did nothing about the fire, nothing to save the people or give them relief. She said the mayor of Stellenbosch is a colored person and he tried to, but the provincial (white governor) and national (black president) governments did nothing.

This woman’s son is at a technical university and her daughter is in an Afrikaans high school, because the English high schools are too expensive. She said she prays for them every day, because she doesn’t know what will become of them. She then launched into a big discussion about how the churches here are great and very integrated and generously and selflessly give to the communities – regardless of race. She told me she’s religious but then I think she felt the need to explain that her religion isn’t harsh or severe or superstitious or anything like that. She said it’s casual and modern and non-judgmental. And that the churches around here donate lots of money and books and clothes for kids to go to school. And that the churches have branches everywhere, and they really try to integrate the communities.

She then talked about the Boers – weird to hear someone using that term to describe people still alive. That’s a term I thought was reserved for history books. Wrong again. She told me to be careful of the Boer girls in town because they think it belongs to them. They think everything belongs to them. They were unfortunate to lose their land in the Anglo-Boer war and from the French wine farmers, but they need to get over it and stop thinking that Stellenbosch, that everything belongs to them. She said they had everything – wealth, education, land, power – and now they’re bitter and they lost it.

Sure apartheid might be over, but the divide is still there. I’ve never used words to describe race so much in one conversation before. Probably not even in my whole life put together. In the States, this conversation never would have happened. I feel weird about it. And you might think she’s racist, but that was not the vibe I got. I felt like she was trying to mentally get over apartheid, but that try as hard as she might, she can’t rid herself of the idea that race means something and defines a person. She went into this lovely tangent about how we are all one human family and we have to look out for each other. It can’t be black, white, colored, foreigner, etc. We have to care for each other but we have to pull our own weight. Yes yes yes. If only people could replace the things that were pounded into their brains as children with this truth.

Apartheid was really successful. It broke people up into groups. And it separated them. But  it didn’t just separate them physically and socially; it taught them that they are separate. It separated them mentally. That there is something different among so-called races. Although colored people were second-class citizens and had none of the privileges white people had and were forcibly removed from their homes and denied basic rights, they were treated much better than black people. They weren’t third-class citizens. Since apartheid has ended, the colored people have been given their human rights back, and no longer are officially second-class citizens. But in reality, she told me she is scoffed upon and stared at when she goes to a restaurant with her boyfriend, a foreigner from Switzerland, a white person. It’s weird, I didn’t register this woman as black, white, colored, or anything when I saw her standing behind the counter when I first walked in. She was just a nice-looking lady I wanted to have a conversation with. But to almost every person in this country, and perhaps most importantly, to herself, she is a colored person. It just blows my mind.

Sure, legislative apartheid is over. The mental apartheid is not.


 This doesn’t even cover all of our conversation – obviously – we talked for so long. But basically, it ended with her apologizing for keeping me so long, talking about the challenges of parenting and trying to be softer and less strict than her parents’ generation, but still instilling good values and respect in her teenage children who are “cheeky.” She thanked me for coming in. As she walked me to the door, we finally officially introduced ourselves and I reached out my hand to shake hers, but she took it and then gave me a huge hug, told me to come back and visit her whenever I wanted, that next time she would make us some coffee or tea or something while we sat and chatted, and – almost in tears - that family is the most important thing and that my mother must be missing me very much.  (I miss you too, Mom!)

So now I have a new friend. And a place I know I can wander over to if I am in need of a hug or want to chat about anything about South Africa. Sure, she’s not a professor, she doesn’t have any college education, she hasn’t written the textbook on apartheid. But she lived it, which is more than anyone else that has ever taught me about apartheid can say.

My lesson for the day: ask and you shall be told, listen and you shall make a new friend.

No comments:

Post a Comment